Dark circles may get most of the attention on TikTok, but according to dermatologist Dr. Jean Charles, under-eye wrinkles are just as common—and just as frustrating. After fielding countless questions about which eye creams actually work, he’s breaking down exactly what to look for if you’re starting to notice crepey skin, fine lines, and early wrinkles under the eyes.
“Just like anything in skincare, your under-eye concerns are very individualized,” Dr. Jean Charles explains. That means the best product for you depends entirely on what you’re trying to treat. For those dealing specifically with texture changes—think crepiness and fine lines—she focuses on three key ingredients: retinoids, hyaluronic acid, and SPF.
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The Gold Standard Ingredient: Retinoids
The skin under the eyes is thinner and more delicate than the rest of the face, making it especially prone to collagen breakdown. Over time, natural aging and sun exposure accelerate that process, leading to fine lines and laxity. “The sun is the leading cause of photo damage, as well as signs of skin aging, including breakdown of the collagen that can lead to some of that crepiness and fine lines and wrinkles,” he says.
If wrinkles are your primary concern, retinoids are non-negotiable. “Retinoids help stimulate collagen, which helps with fine lines and wrinkles,” Dr. Jean Charles notes. By encouraging skin cell turnover and boosting collagen production, retinoids gradually smooth texture and improve firmness.
Some of her go-to retinol eye creams include RoC Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing Eye Cream and Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol Eye Cream, both formulated to target fine lines. For those who tolerate stronger derivatives, she also recommends retinaldehyde formulas like Avène RetrinAL Eyes and Medik8 Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye. K-beauty fans may want to try Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum, another retinol-based option designed for delicate under-eye skin.
For Instant Plumpness: Hyaluronic Acid
While retinoids work long term, hyaluronic acid delivers immediate (but temporary) results. “I like products that contain hyaluronic acid so they can temporarily plump up those fine lines and wrinkles,” she says, especially for morning use. Hyaluronic acid attracts water to the skin, creating a smoother, more hydrated appearance.
One of her favorites is L’Oréal Revitalift Hyaluronic Acid + Caffeine Eye Serum, which not only hydrates but also contains caffeine to help reduce puffiness. If you want a formula that combines retinol and hyaluronic acid, First Aid Beauty Retinol Eye Cream offers both in one step.
Don’t Skip SPF
Finally, protection is key. Daily SPF prevents further collagen breakdown and slows visible aging. While you can apply your regular sunscreen under the eyes, Dr. Jean Charles particularly likes Colorescience Total Eye 3‑in‑1 Renewal Therapy SPF 35. It contains SPF 35+, offers subtle brightening, and features a cooling applicator tip that helps depuff while smoothing fine lines.
The Bottom Line
When it comes to under-eye wrinkles, there’s no one-size-fits-all solution. But with a targeted approach—collagen-stimulating retinoids, hydrating hyaluronic acid, and consistent sun protection—you can visibly smooth and strengthen the delicate eye area over time. As Dr. Jean Charles emphasizes, understanding your specific concern is the first step to choosing an eye cream that truly delivers.
