Fine vertical lines above and around the lips are often one of the first signs of aging to appear—and unfortunately, they’re also among the hardest to treat once they become deeply etched into the skin. Commonly called “lip lines” or “smoker’s lines,” these wrinkles can develop from natural collagen loss, sun exposure, repetitive facial movements, and lifestyle habits over time.
According to Maren Locke, a board-certified dermatologist known as “The Budget Dermatologist,” the key is focusing on prevention and early intervention before those lines become more noticeable.
“Those lines can really age the face and make somebody look much older than they actually are,” Dr. Locke explains. “These are actually really, really hard to get rid of.”
Fortunately, there are several dermatologist-approved ways to soften and prevent vertical lip lines.
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Use Collagen-Boosting Ingredients
One of Dr. Locke's biggest recommendations is incorporating ingredients that help stimulate collagen production.
She specifically highlights products containing:
- Peptides (such as Matrixyl 3000)
- Retinol
- Hydrating ingredients that support skin elasticity
According to Dr. Locke, peptides help encourage the skin to produce new collagen, which can improve firmness and reduce the appearance of fine lines over time.
"That's what's going to plump the lip up, prevent those wrinkles from forming, and help smooth out those fine lines," she says.
Retinol is another gold-standard anti-aging ingredient because it helps increase cell turnover and stimulates collagen production beneath the skin's surface.
Choose Gentle Formulas Around The Mouth
While retinol can be highly effective, the skin around the lips is particularly delicate.
Dr. Locke warns that applying strong facial retinoids directly around the mouth can sometimes lead to irritation, redness, and peeling. Instead, she recommends choosing products specifically formulated for sensitive areas around the lips and eyes.
"The reason I love a dedicated product for this area is because it's formulated to be safe for that delicate skin," she explains.
Try LED Light Therapy
For those looking to level up their routine, Dr. Locke is a strong supporter of LED light therapy. Red light therapy has been shown to stimulate collagen production and may help improve skin texture and elasticity over time.
"I am a huge proponent of LED products," she says. While full-face LED masks can provide benefits, specialized devices designed to target the mouth area may offer more concentrated treatment for vertical lip lines.
Consider At-Home Microneedling Alternatives
Another treatment Dr. Locke recommends is micro-stamping or at-home micro-infusion devices. These tools use tiny needles to create controlled micro-channels in the skin, helping skincare ingredients penetrate more effectively while encouraging collagen production.
She notes that these treatments can help build collagen more quickly than topical products alone when used correctly. However, proper technique is essential to avoid irritation or injury.
Protect Your Skin From The Sun
When it comes to preventing lip lines, sunscreen remains non-negotiable. UV damage breaks down collagen and elastin, accelerating the formation of wrinkles around the mouth and throughout the face.
Dr. Locke emphasizes that sun protection is one of the most effective long-term strategies for preserving collagen and preventing premature aging.
Watch Lifestyle Habits That Can Worsen Lip Lines
According to Dr. Locke, certain everyday habits may make vertical lip lines more pronounced, including:
- Smoking
- Chronic sun exposure
- Repetitive puckering motions
- Frequent straw use
While these habits won't necessarily cause wrinkles overnight, reducing repetitive stress on the skin can help slow their development.
Oral Collagen May Help Support Skin Elasticity
Dr. Locke also discusses oral collagen supplements as part of a broader anti-aging strategy. While supplements aren't a miracle cure, some research suggests collagen peptides may help support skin hydration, elasticity, and overall collagen maintenance.
She views collagen supplementation as another tool that may complement a comprehensive skincare routine.
Professional Treatments Can Deliver Dramatic Results
For deeper, more established lip lines, topical products alone may not be enough. In-office treatments can include:
- Botox
- Dermal fillers
- Deep chemical peels
- Resurfacing lasers
According to Dr. Locke, these procedures can produce significant improvements, especially lasers and chemical peels that target deeper layers of skin.
However, they often come with higher costs, downtime, and varying levels of discomfort.
The Bottom Line
When it comes to vertical lip lines, Dr. Locke says prevention is far easier than correction.
Her overall strategy focuses on preserving collagen through a combination of peptide-rich skincare, retinol, LED therapy, sun protection, healthy lifestyle habits, and early treatment.
"The most important thing you can do is prevent them," she says. "And treat them early before they become a real problem."
By focusing on collagen support now, you may be able to keep those stubborn lip lines from becoming more noticeable later.
